Sample frameDay 312·Brand Management · Luxury

One corner of business runs every rule you've learned backwards. Today you find out whether you're standing in it.

Brand Management.

The Anti-Laws of Luxury

5 min read·Apply by lunch

The question

When demand for one of your products jumped last year, what did you actually do — make more of it, widen the distribution, or hold the number and let the wait get longer? Two of those answers grew this year's revenue. One of them was building something you'll still be charging for in a decade.

The idea

Jean-Noël Kapferer wrote The Luxury Strategy in 2009 with Vincent Bastien, who ran Louis Vuitton as its chief executive for seven years before he taught any of this. Their argument was that luxury isn't the top end of an ordinary market; it's a separate regime with its own rules, and they set out twenty-four anti-laws of marketing to make the point. Do not respond to rising demand. Do not pander to your customers' wishes. Raise the price over time in order to increase desire. Make it somewhat difficult to buy. Advertise to people who will never purchase, because they're the ones whose recognition gives the object its meaning. The economics underneath it are old — Thorstein Veblen described conspicuous consumption in The Theory of the Leisure Class in 1899, where a higher price can raise demand rather than kill it. Borrow the anti-laws without the regime and they stop being strategy. They hold only where the buyer is purchasing meaning and standing. Run them over a premium business, which competes by being the best value inside a comparison, and you haven't become a luxury brand; you've just made yourself expensive and hard to buy.

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